Seeing jaguars in the Pantanal: North or South?

Split between the states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul, the Pantanal is a vast floodplain where the water rises and falls with the seasons. Caimans, capybaras, giant otters, hyacinth macaws, giant anteaters, marsh deer: wildlife here is unusually dense. The jaguar, though, is what most travelers dream of. And that’s where the choice between north and south becomes crucial.

The Northern Pantanal: jaguar country

In the north, you reach the Pantanal from Cuiabá via the Transpantaneira, a dirt road lined with wooden bridges that runs about 150 kilometers to the hamlet of Porto Jofre. Along the way, lodges let you explore the wildlife on foot, on horseback or by boat.

Porto Jofre is the top spot for jaguars. From lodges on the banks of the Rio Cuiabá, boat outings travel the rivers and channels where the big cats come to hunt or rest on the banks. In the dry season, sightings are frequent, making it one of the best sites on the continent.

Brazil Vip tip: To maximize your chances, plan at least two to three nights in Porto Jofre, plus one or two nights on the Transpantaneira for the rest of the wildlife. The jaguar is still a wild animal: no sighting is ever guaranteed.

The Southern Pantanal: fazendas, nature and a manageable budget

In the south, around Miranda and Aquidauana, you explore the Pantanal from large fazendas, cattle ranches that have partly turned to ecotourism. The accommodations are simpler and more affordable, the atmosphere more rural, and the activities varied: vehicle safaris, hikes, horseback rides, night outings, piranha fishing.

Wildlife is abundant, but jaguars are much harder to spot here. On the other hand, the Southern Pantanal is just a few hours from Bonito and its crystal-clear rivers: an ideal combination for a nature trip, especially with family.

• Access — North: fly to Cuiabá, then the Transpantaneira — South: fly to Campo Grande, then drive to Miranda
• Jaguars — North: frequent sightings in the dry season at Porto Jofre — South: rare sightings
• Accommodations — North: lodges, from simple to comfortable — South: fazendas, often more affordable
• Combine with — North: Rio, Iguazu or the dunes of the Northeast — South: Bonito and its crystal-clear rivers

When to go?

The dry season, roughly July to October, is the best time: animals gather around the watering holes and the roads are passable. It’s also the best period for jaguars at Porto Jofre. During the rainy season, from December to March, part of the Pantanal is flooded: the scenery is superb, but some areas become hard to reach and wildlife viewing is more hit-or-miss.

How much time to plan?

For the Northern Pantanal, five nights strike a good balance between the Transpantaneira and Porto Jofre. For the Southern Pantanal, three nights at a fazenda are usually enough, ideally followed by two or three nights in Bonito. And if you want the best of both worlds, there’s nothing stopping you from combining the two regions in a single trip.

Brazil Vip tip: Bring neutral-colored clothing, a good repellent, a cap and, if possible, binoculars. For photographers, a telephoto lens makes all the difference on the boat outings.