Lençóis Maranhenses: how to plan your visit

In northeastern Brazil, in the state of Maranhão, Lençóis Maranhenses National Park covers some 1,500 square kilometers of dunes. Unlike a desert, the region gets a lot of rain at the start of the year: water collects between the dunes and forms hundreds of seasonal lagoons. That contrast is what makes the place so magical.

Choosing the right time

The lagoons depend entirely on the rains, which are generally concentrated from January to May. They are at their most beautiful between June and September: the rainy season is over, the skies are clear and the water is still there. From October on, many lagoons drop, and some dry up by the end of the year.

Brazil Vip tip: If you’re going between October and December, the dunes are still spectacular, but don’t promise everyone a swim: check the water levels for the year of your trip, since they vary with the intensity of the rainy season.

Barreirinhas, Atins or Santo Amaro?

Barreirinhas is the busiest gateway, about a four-hour drive from São Luís. This small town on the Rio Preguiças is where most of the pousadas and tour operators are. The 4x4 excursions to the best-known lagoons, such as Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Bonita, leave from here, as does the boat trip down the Rio Preguiças to the ocean.

Atins, at the mouth of the Rio Preguiças, is a more isolated and peaceful sandy village, reached by boat or 4x4. People come for the quiet, the kitesurfing and the hikes in the dunes, with lagoons that are often less crowded.

Santo Amaro, on the west side of the park, is the least-known gateway. The dunes start almost at the edge of the village and its lagoons are renowned for their beauty, but getting there takes longer and the infrastructure is more basic.

• Barreirinhas — Best for: a first visit, convenient and well organized — Plus: the widest choice of excursions and accommodations
• Atins — Best for: lovers of peace and nature — Plus: the end-of-the-world feel and kitesurfing
• Santo Amaro — Best for: travelers avoiding the crowds — Plus: less-visited dunes and lagoons

How long to stay?

Two nights in Barreirinhas let you do the two main excursions: the lagoons in the afternoon, when the light is at its best, and the trip down the Rio Preguiças. With one more night in Atins, you get to enjoy another, wilder side of the park.

Continue along the Route of Emotions

The Lençóis are the first stop on the Route of Emotions, an itinerary that follows the coast to Jericoacoara by way of the Parnaíba Delta, one of the few open-sea deltas in the world. It’s one of the best ways to discover the Northeast, among dunes, mangroves and fishing villages.

Brazil Vip tip: The dunes reflect the sun intensely: sunglasses, sunscreen and a hat are essential. Bring sandals that are easy to take off, too, since you walk barefoot in the sand.